Joven Talento Millesime Mexico 2015, semifinalista internacional Young Chef de San Pellegrino, abanderada de la nueva cocina tabasqueña y uno de los perfiles mediáticos favoritos de cámaras y periodistas allá donde va. Gaby Ruiz cautiva a los pocos segundos de conocerla.
Por María Forcada
Gabriela Ruiz Lugo nació en Comalcalco, en el Estado de Tabasco, en 1997. Licenciada en Gastronomía por la Escuela Culinaria del Sureste, estudió con los chefs Arturo Fernández y Luis Baroccio y continuó su formación con uno de los chefs regionales más reconocidos, Aquiles Chávez. Como en la historia de otros grandes chefs, su familia no quiso que se dedicara a los fogones pero, caso omiso, su pasión por los productos y gastronomía de su tierra pesó más que los consejos paternos.
Hace tres años, con pasión y poco presupuesto inició su faceta empresarial con Gourmet MX, su propio restaurante – o debería decir, una casa de comidas-, junto a su socio y pareja Rafael López Rubí, ubicado en una nave comercial donde te vendían desde una rueda hasta una bombilla. A día de hoy este recinto es conocido como Gourmet Center y aúna más de 10 locales de diseño actual, buena música, gastronomía casual y ambiente hasta bien entrada la noche. Gourmet MX ha dejado de ser un lugarcito modesto, transformándose en un espacio de diseño neoclásico, moderno y punto de reunión de la flor y nata de la ciudad. Y a pesar de de esto, Gourmet MX conserva el alma intacta, rescatando los aromas y recuerdos del recetario tradicional, aquellos por los que sus clientes suspiran y que ha colocado a la joven chef en objetivo de reflectores, crítica y curiosos gastrónomos de todo el mundo.
Junto a Gourmet MX (y separado tan solo por una puerta de cristal), la emancipada pareja durante el otoño de 2015 ChataPandal, un neobistró con guiños a la cocina japonesa y española (no es fusión). La inspiración en las recetas de ChataPandal se encuentra en la figura de la abuela de Rafa, coqueta española de labios rojos que adaptó la cocina tradicional de sus orígenes con ingredientes mexicanos tras cruzar el Atlántico.
El último retoño de Gaby y Rafa (con algunos socios más) se llama Macario, un enorme local a imagen y semejanza de los restaurants barbacue de Texas y la Costa Oeste de los Estados Unidos, con zona recreativa para niños y un apetecible menú basado en costillas (tiernecitas, de las que se desprenden del hueso), pollo asado, brisket ahumado, puré de papa, brownie de chocolate y demás pendejadas yanquis pero muy bien preparadas. Un lugar para chuparse los dedos literalmente.
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TIPS GABY RUIZ
En 2016 nos sorprenderá con Historias de Carmela, un personaje ficticio que nos sumerge en el apasionante y desconocido mundo del cacao. Lenguaje ágil y didáctico para jóvenes y no tan jóvenes. “Carmela viene de la variedad de cacao Carmelo, uno de los más preciados de México”.
También prepara un proyecto muy sabroso para impulsar el uso de cacao mexicano en las cocinas de los chefs más reconocidos de México. “El cacao es uno de mis productos favoritos a la hora de cocinar, y no tengo ninguno favorito, me gustan todos”.
Millesime México la reconoció como Joven Talento 2015. Un premio otorgado por periodistas especializados de la República. “Cuando veía a todos los que participaban en este gran evento yo me sentía emocionada, quería estar ahí. Ahora es como un sueño hecho realidad”.
En 2014 fue seleccionada como una de las 10 Young Chef San Pellegrino que fueron a competir a la semifinal de Sao Paulo. No quedó ganadora aunque más de un miembro del jurado (léase como ejemplo Alex Atala), quedó emocionado con su Puchero Tabasqueño. “El Puchero de Res lo aprendí de mi madre, lo comía tres días a la semana y lo aborrecía, pero cuando fui a vivir sola lo eché de menos así que le pedí la receta, aún así no conseguía sacarle el punto hasta que ella me confesó un ingrediente que no estaba escrito, el amor que sentía por mí y hermana. Entonces comprendí que para ser la mejor en este oficio tenía que poner toda la pasión en cada platillo”. Este platillo compuesto por lengua braseada, puré de malanga y plátano macho pasado confitado es un perenne en la carta de la tabasqueña.
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