Los días 25, 26 y 27 de enero se celebró Madrid Fusión en el Palacio de Congresos del Recinto Ferial de Madrid. Un evento en el que destacaron grandes figuras internacionales como Grant Achatz, Daniel Humm, Joan Roca y Massimo Bottura.
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Madrid Fusión ha terminado con una clara conclusión: el futuro inmediato es la sostenibilidad. Durante tres días, los mejores chefs nacionales e internacionales demostraron sus últimas novedades culinarias y sus recientes bases filosóficas.
De un lado, los nacionales fueron quienes se mancharon las manos cocinando en directo para la asistencia. Mario Sandoval, Ricardo Sanz, los hermanos Torres o Rodrigo de la Calle demostraron arte y sobre todo cercanía con un público especialmente joven y admirador.
Del otro, el Auditorio tuvo sus puntos álgidos en asistencia en ponencias como la de Grant Achatz y Daniel Humm, aunque decepcionó por su falta de chicha, pues el contenido se basó en echarse flores mutuamente. La tailandesa Nooror Somany Steppe (Blue Elephant) emocionó por su cocina inteligente y talante encantador.
Los tres hermanos Roca, cada uno por separado, también dieron la nota. Joseph Roca mostró su último vídeo patrocinado por BBVA en el que el Celler se introduce en la gastronomía de Turquía. Joan intentó analizar qué es la vanguardia haciendo un repaso de la historia creativa del Celler: La pipa de humo mecánica (1998), el Roner (1997), Postres a partir de los aceites de los perfumes (2000), Caramelo soplado (2002), Rotoval (2005). También promocionó su último aparato doméstico recientemente patentado: Rocook, para cocinar al vacío y a baja temperatura en casa. Respecto a la explicación de qué es vanguardia dijo: “ Debe existir un espíritu incorformista y creativo. La vanguardia se delata en un futuro, cuando se consolida. Siempre hay que estar en guardia y mantener un compromiso con el entorno“.
Pero fue Jordi Roca en su exposición junto a Neil Harbisson quien dió el Do de pecho. Neil Harbisson, que nació sin distinguir más allá de la gama de grises, ha creado un aparato que instaló en su propio cerebro para escuchar una frecuencia de luz que se transforma en sonidos. Estos sonidos crean un nuevo órgano que sirve para escuchar el color rojo o azul. Esta antena implantada en la cabeza es una extensión de internet y hace retratos sonoros. A partir de aquí, Jordi Roca ha elaborado postres cromáticos que pueden ser interpretados como una sintonía.
Entre los más aplaudidos estuvo Ángel León (Aponiente), que llevó a cabo un diálogo con el mar al tiempo que anunciaba sus últimas creaciones: los camarones de diferentes colores que tienen diferente sabor y que se sirven crudos y escaldados al momento; la Daphnia zooplacton, lo más diminuto de la cadena trófica marina; el aceite de salicornia; los brotes de plantas salobres; o el taco dulce de alófilas con matices anisados, mostrando así la cara dulce del mar.
El triunvirato inseparable formado por Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil, Ciudad de México), Virgilio Martínez (Central, LIma) y el argentino Mauro Colagreco (Mirazur, Francia) se hizo notar con el relato y las imágenes de una emotiva historia de sostenibilidad en la que han basado su proyecto Orígenes, que pretende reconocer, recuperar y conservar productos, técnicas y costumbres ancestrales de pequeñas comunidades.
Por último, destacar la aparición de Massimo Bottura (Osteria Francescana), que recibió el premio “Cocinero del Año en Europa” y habló de su último proyecto, “Reflectorio”, una oda a la imperfección donde elabora alta cocina de desecho para los más pobres.
Resumiendo: sostenibilidad, humanidad, recuperacion indígena, descarte, alimentos imperfectos y desecho han sido las palabras más repeticas en la XIV edición de Madrid Fusión.
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