El chef de RyuGin, que mantiene este año sus tres estrellas, sirve un menú temático con el cotizado pez globo como protagonista
Por Rosa Rivas
El fugu, o pez globo, es un cotizado pescado en Japón. Los expertos que lo manejan –que chefs entrenados, pues tiene unas glándulas que lo hacen venenoso-, saben utilizarlo al máximo. Todo su cuerpo sirve: aletas, carne, piel e incluso sus huevas y esperma. A la brasa, en caldo, marinado en sake, crudo en sashimi… Si del cerdo se dice que se aprovechan hasta los andares, del fugu se pueden aprovechar hasta los aleteos. Siempre y cuando las manos hábiles (y autorizadas por el Gobierno japonés) sepan extraer la toxicidad del pez.
Y uno de los maestros en el arte de cocinar el pez globo es Seiji Yamamoto. Es un extraordinario conocedor de los pescados que ha llegado incluso a radiografiarlos para conocer mejor su estructura y su alma. Esto le permite desarrollar la magia del corte (especialidad nipona que requiere años de entrenamiento) y dominar las partes nobles de la pieza para cocinarla. No es de extrañar entonces que el chef de RyuGin, uno de los más cotizados restaurantes de la escena tokiota y que ha revalidado sus tres estrellas en la guía Michelin 2015, haya comenzado el año con un menú temático en homenaje al fugu, un gran reto para un cocinero de este país.
Además de esta exótica delicatessen, Yamamoto san sirve un despliegue de alimentos de temporada. La carta se cambia continuamente. “Nos enfrentamos a diario a los ingredientes para determinar y entender lo que define nuestra cocina”, dice el chef, empeñado en demostrar con cada estación “los tesoros alimenticios que tiene Japón”. Considera que la cocina “es un símbolo de la riqueza” de su país. Una riqueza que surge como regalo de la naturaleza, por lo que se ve en la obligación de que los comensales también la perciban. “Los ingredientes naturales que llegan a través de la boca y el sentimiento de felicidad que provocan en su viaje por el cuerpo no pueden describirse con palabras”, dice este cocinero nacido en 1970 en la prefectura de Kagawa (donde hacen unos excelentes fideos udon), y que confiesa haber empezado a cocinar para agradar a su madre. A los 33 años logró abrir su propio establecimiento.
Yamamoto es fiel a la cocina estacional japonesa y domina las técnicas tradicionales, aunque no rechaza las herramientas actuales. La sensibilidad no está reñida con el nitrógeno líquido, como ocurre en alguno de sus postres, donde la fruta helada esconde dentro una crema caliente de la misma fruta.
Como corresponde a un sensei (maestro) de la alta cocina, ofrece kaiseki (el menú largo y ritual de la gastronomía japonesa basado en pequeños platos), aunque le aporta toques vanguardistas que no alteran la esencia. Hasta 30 clases de vegetales y una docena de moluscos pueden trazar el territorio de un plato, proponiendo un viaje de ingredientes regionales en el atlas de la mesa.
Una de sus elaboraciones más celebradas es un ayu que, previamente echado vivo a la sartén con aceite hirviendo, queda congelado con el movimiento del aleteo. Con esta posición llega a la mesa en una especie de jardín zen, como un pescado nadando entre olas de sal. En el extremo del plato negro de pizarra, una luna de miso rojo. Ante ese cuadro sorprendente, solo queda lanzarse a remar con los palillos sobre la deliciosa carne del pez.
Otra creación impactante de Yamamoto, y que llevó en 2007 al congreso Madrid Fusión, es un plato serigrafiado con tinta de calamar. El manjar es servido sobre una hoja de periódico en el que, con esa tinta marina, está grabado el nombre de su restaurante, Ryugin, y un código de barras cuya lectura permite conocer los ingredientes del plato.
El restaurante del dragón de plata (significado de RyuGin), es una de las joyas escondidas en el barrio de Roppongi. El espacio es austero, con capacidad para una veintena de personas, y está decorado con imágenes simbólicas del animal mítico que da nombre al lugar. Ahora, el arte culinario de Yamamoto sale de Tokio y llega a Hong Kong, donde es responsable del restaurante Tenku RyuGin, hasta donde vuelan a diario ingredientes de Japón y que ya tiene dos estrellas. Dentro o fuera de Tokio, el dragón no deja de brillar.
[galeria id=”761″ single]
RyuGin
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Tenku RyuGin
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