El octogenario Jiro Ono sirve el mejor sushi del mundo en un local dentro del metro de Tokio, con tres estrellas Michelin
Por Rosa Rivas
Que un anciano de 89 años considerado el mejor sushiman del mundo diga que aún tiene que aprender y perfeccionarse es toda una lección para arrogantes y fantasmas de la gastronomía. Jiro Ono sirve el mejor sushi del mundo desde un pequeño local en el metro de Tokio, en la laberíntica estación de Ginza. No mienten los expertos. No es un farol que lo hayan dicho Ferrán Adrià, el cocinero más influyente del mundo, o el mediático chef viajero y escritor Anthony Bourdain, o que el presidente de Estados Unidos, Barack Obama, lo haya reverenciado en su reciente viaje a Japón.
Después de comer en Sukiyabashi Jiro Honten, el restaurante del anciano Jiro que año tras año revalida sus tres estrellas Michelin, la percepción del sushi ya no es la misma. No te arrepientes de haber pagado 400 dólares por la experiencia. Todo lo que se prueba después queda como de segunda categoría, aunque sea exquisito. Es un hombre que ha dedicado su vida al sushi, cuyas manos transmiten, no sólo la temperatura y la textura exacta del bocado, sino la excelencia paladeable, la perfección y la sublimación de lo sencillo.
En su pequeño y acogedor local solo caben doce personas y se ofrecen comidas y cenas. En apenas media hora, con el tiempo justo para degustar el sushi, Jiro sirve una veintena de piezas (según la temporada) a los comensales apostados en su barra. Pone palillos en el mostrador, pero mejor no comportarse como un gaijin (extranjero) y actuar como un japonés devoto del sushi: tomándolo con la mano, para no romper las tiernas y sabrosas esculturas de arroz, pescado, marisco y alga nori que surgen de las manos mágicas de Jiro. La sensación que tiene el comensal es que recibe una ofrenda, el gesto y la mirada de Jiro lo transparenta, y la extraordinaria temperatura (igualada con la del cuerpo humano), el sabor del sushi y la finura del bocado son la mejor expresión de lo que él llama “trabajar con el corazón”. ¿Cuál es el secreto de Jiro? “No hay nada especial. Sólo hago mi trabajo. Estoy concentrado en lo que hago, que es ofrecer lo mejor”, afirma vehemente.
¿Los extranjeros sabemos comer sushi? “Depende de la gente. Si la actitud es molesta se lo hago notar”, dice el sensei (maestro). Jiro san es serio, hay quien se puede sentir intimidado por su actitud, concentrada y vigilante, como explorando la reacción de los comensales. Pero una palabra mágica: oishii (delicioso) arranca su sonrisa de satisfacción. Y si ese comensal que levita repite la experiencia, la sonrisa de Jiro será un ingrediente más desde que empieza el festín, incluso le ofrecerá un sake especial que elaboran sólo para su restaurante.
Aunque es amable y correcto y agradece con reverencias la visita a su espacio, no le gustan las conversaciones. La reveladora película documental Jiro, a dream of sushi, de David Gelb, se hizo durante tres meses, con el equipo en plan discreto, filmándole mientras trabajaba. No le molestaban con preguntas, eran testigos silenciosos del trabajo del anciano sushiman.
El sushi es el motor de la vida de Jiro (que ha escrito varios libros sobre el tema) y de su familia. Sus dos hijos son los continuadores de su labor. El pequeño, Takashi, vuela solo, con restaurante propio en Roppongi; es muy hábil, pero no puede competir con su padre, no se atreve y, como Jiro, dice que le queda mucho por aprender. Yoshikazu, el hijo mayor, es la mano derecha en el restaurante de Ginza, se encarga de ir todos los días al mercado de Tsukiji a por las provisiones y en la barra es como la prolongación del maestro; además habla un poco inglés, lo que facilita la comunicación con la clientela extranjera que peregrina al local. Incluso ya ha activado una web para el mercado internacional, que comercializa productos para cocineros como el vinagre para sushi.
Cosas de la fama mundial, tiene más clientes internacionales que japoneses, un 75%. Como los empleados están acostumbrados a que los comensales tomen fotos, colocan en el mostrador unos tapetitos para depositar la cámara o el móvil y que no se caiga, alterando la calma de la degustación. Hay quienes, sumidos en el respeto ante el maestro, no se atreven a hacer otra cosa que no sea comer. A Jiro le gustaría que la atmósfera fuera calmada, casi de templo, pero soporta los efectos de la fama, el continuo trajín de personas expectantes que llegan de todo el mundo. Conseguir asiento en los taburetes de la barra de sushi de Jiro cuesta meses, así como manejar contactos de comensales habituales que hagan de pasaporte a los nuevos devotos.
Si el gaijin habla japonés, el rostro inmutable del maestro y de su hijo esbozan una sonrisa e intercambian algunas palabras con el interlocutor. Pero si se come se come. No se pierde tiempo en hablar. Lo dice el gesto siempre concentrado de Jiro armando el sushi, amasando las bolitas de arroz, limpiando la bandeja de laca antes de depositar cada pieza. Su hijo es su ayudante en la barra y compra el pescado en el gran mercado de Tsukiji. Los proveedores saben que tienen que darle las mejores piezas. La extrema frescura del producto vivo llega al restaurante.
Pero al final de la comida, el ritual de la seriedad y el silencio se torna a la hospitalidad tradicional: los cocineros salen a despedir a la puerta a los clientes y acceden a fotografiarse juntos. Incluso Jiro san estampa su firma, con tinta y caligrafía primorosa, en el menú impreso en papel de arroz.
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