Chan Yan-tak, fue el primer chino en recibir, en el año 2008, una calificación máxima de tres estrellas en la Guía Michelín. El restaurante donde ejerce su meticulosa cocina está dentro de uno de los hoteles más lujosos a orillas del muelle de Hong Kong y responde al nombre de Lung King Heen (Vista de Dragón).
Sus inicios en la cocina surgieron de una necesidad económica, pues su madre murió cuando él era muy joven, tenía poco más de 10 años. “Entonces lavaba los vegetales, desplumaba los pollos y batía huevos”, explica Chan Yan-Tak. En los años 70, Chan empezó a trabajar como cocinero en diversos establecimientos de la ciudad hasta que en 1984 entrara a formar parte del equipo de Lai Ching Heen en el Regent Hotel, donde trabajaría durante 16 años. Tras quedar viudo decidió abandonar la cocina, pero el Four Seasons, que abrió el hotel en Hong Kong en 2005, logró convencerle para volver a los fogones.
A diario, este chef selecciona personalmente las piezas de marisco y pescado vivo que irán a parar al enorme vivero de su cocina para garantizar la máxima frescura en la elaboración de unas recetas que él mismo describe como “específicamente cantonesas, donde existe lo fuerte y lo débil, lo dulce y lo picoso, pero el contraste es más tenue. Es una diferencia que yo llamo cultura del gusto”. La base del menú del Lung King Heen son los platillos cantoneses básicos: carnes asadas (cerdo, pato, ganso, pollo, pichón), más una docena de caldos y una amplia variedad de mariscos a los que suele añadir alguna rareza exótica o gourmet como trufa negra o caviar. Algunos de sus platos, como el foie gras (apenas cocinado al vapor y servido con abulón sudafricano), la aleta de tiburón o el nido de ave son manjares exclusivos y muy caros que impresionan al comensal. Una cocina que toma su inspiración en las recetas de marisco cantonesas, fusionándolas con la escuela francesa, y que le ha valido el máximo reconocimiento de la Guía Michelín, convirtiéndose en la primera figura de la gastronomía china que consigue las tres codiciadas estrellas.
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