Elena Reygadas… … En sintonía con lo que le rodea

 

Casada, madre de dos niñas, responsable de una panadería, el restaurante Rosetta al que ha sumado un pequeño salón privado y un proyecto informal que ha sido un acierto al pleno, Lardo. Portó la corona de “mejor mujer chef en Latinoamérica 2014” y además saca tiempo para atender a la prensa con dulzura y paciencia. Así se traza un perfil rápido de la vida de Elena Reygadas. Sensata, apasionada, amante de la naturaleza y los pequeños detalles. Su día a día se centra en el trabajo y en un crecimiento personal incombustible. Su discurso es un remanso de paz, un diálogo de coherencia.

María Forcada

 ¿Qué sentiste al ser la mejor chef de América Latina?

Realmente muy contenta, un reconocimiento de esta magnitud es muy alentador, no solo para mí, pues es el premio de todos, de Rosetta. Esto crea un compromiso para seguir haciéndolo siempre lo mejor que podamos.

Los premios The 50th Best siempre han estado rodeados de polémica, de hecho Carme Ruscalleda negó el premio…

Respeto su decisión, lógicamente. A mí me creó sentimientos encontrados, para mí la cocina no es una cuestión de géneros sino de personalidad e individualidad. Sin embargo no iba a negar un premio que reconoce la labor de la mujer en un mundo a menudo dominado por hombres. Esto ha sido así debido a los horarios y a la exigencia de esta labor, que se complica sobre todo cuando tienes familia.

Rosetta es un horno de pan y un restaurante con un estilo peculiar, con un marcado acento de cocina italiana. ¿Por qué cree que le han dado el premio?

Yo no hago una cocina italiana, prácticamente todos mis ingredientes son mexicanos. Al final hago la cocina que me gusta, una cocina personal donde  busco mis intereses, mis gustos, lo  que me llama la atención, que va desde trabajar con pulque a hacerlo con shiso, una hoja japonesa. Me siento libre de usar lo que me atrae y la parte artesanal de las pastas siempre me ha gustado. Me seduce la panadería porque es una combinación de técnica y medida pero también de intuición y originalidad… Los arroces, la papa… Quizás porque  no soy tan carnívora per se, sin embargo me gustan las vísceras y las introduzco en mi cocina.

Resumiendo, me gusta la cocina italiana pero también la francesa… Y la mexicana…

Entonces, su formación culinaria, ¿cómo ha sido?

Mi abuela era hija de asturianos y con ella me introduje en la cocina española, luego estudié en el Instituto Culinario Francés de Nueva York y más tarde me trasladé a Londres donde trabajé con españoles e italianos. Afortunadamente hoy en día la gastronomía en México es muy cosmopolita, absolutamente contemporánea, y encajan todas las culturas. De hecho me da gusto el premio porque demuestra que no tienes que cocinar nopales para obtener reconocimiento, sino hacer las cosas bien y con pasión.

Su restaurante Rosetta es un icono en La Roma (el barrio más cosmopolita de México DF) y siempre está lleno, ¿cuál es su secreto?

La verdad es que no estoy segura. El negocio de la restauración es un enigma para bien y para mal. Lo que  es cierto es que cuidamos mucho el lado artesanal de la comida, donde el sabor es lo más importante. También hacemos un cambio constante del menú, basándonos en la temporada, lo que atrae a la clientela asidua. Ayuda el ambiente porque no te sientes rígido, me gusta que se pueda comer disfrutando. Nos fijamos mucho en los detalles, el agua, el reciclaje, el café auténtico y de verdad mexicano.

Volvamos al premio, ¿qué ventajas le ha supuesto a nivel empresarial?

Es como tener de repente un foco sobre ti, y eso te da apertura, reconocimiento, invitaciones a viajar…, aunque yo me enfoco mucho en mi restaurante, en mejorar día a día. También surge el interés por parte de gente que nunca había venido. En cualquier caso yo no voy a cambiar mi esencia.

Sin embargo ha sido el empujón para abrir un nuevo espacio que ya tenía en mente. Una casa junto a Rosetta convertida en taller culinario para tener un lugar de reflexión e investigación y atender a pocos comensales. El acceso es distinto al de Rosetta y la idea es complementar la empresa.

¿Con qué sueña Elena Reygadas?

Yo sueño constantemente. No quiero perder las ganas de seguir investigando, aprender más sobre la diversidad de mi país. Quiero estar cerca de académicos, expertos en botánica y aplicarlo a la gastronomía. Seguir aprendiendo más sobre la charcutería, de la que antes no tenías ni idea. Y tratar de que mi equipo siga esta línea y estas ganas.

¿Viaja más ahora que antes?

Salir está bien para aprender algo que te aporte o aportar algo, pero tengo un espacio  propio y una familia, que es para mí lo más valioso. Nunca me ha gustado mucho lo de ser chef mediático y nada más, a mí donde más me gusta estar es en mi restaurante.

En México sobresale la mujer chef y sobre todo chef-empresaria: Martha Ortiz, Marta Zepeda, Solange Muris, Lucero Soto, Mónica Patiño, Elena Reygadas… ¿Por qué ocurre esto?

Esto me entusiasma. Que las cocineras ahora seamos reconocidas responde a una realidad de la sociedad, pues en las casas cocina la mujer.  Que seamos empresarias también se impone hoy en día, es la manera de poder realizarnos mejor, siempre con gente que te asesore bien por supuesto.

¿Cuándo no cocina en casa, dónde sale a comer?

Depende del momento y con quién. En Ciudad de México me encanta Máximo Bistró, siento mucha empatía con Eduardo. Me gusta Nico´s para ir en familia, también MeroToro, Pujol en ocasiones de celebración, allí disfruto de cómo me atienden y de detalles perfectos… Me gustan los sitios pequeños y personales. Fuera de México sin duda Estela en Nueva York que tiene una cocina de mucho sabor y Blanca en Brooklyn.

¿El plato que más disfruta cocinar?

Lo que más disfruto es cocinar cereales, porque me sigo sorprendiendo con sus sabores. También me encanta el rompope, como lo hacía mi abuela, así que lo preparamos en casa cada Navidad.

¿Le gusta el vino?

Me encanta el vino y también la cerveza.  Sobre todo los blancos franceses y los tintos italianos, pero cada vez más los blancos.  Hace poco descubrí un blanco español que me fascinó, Gessami de Gramona.

¿Si no fuera cocinera sería…?

Campesina o anticuaria, rodeada de chácharas.

Realmente la hostelería, ¿es un sacrificio?

Un sacrificio es algo que no quieres hacer y lo haces. Yo prefiero estar aquí, en mi restaurante, antes que en cualquier otro lugar y compensa, pero sí es cierto que es un trabajo pesado sobre todo físicamente debido a las largas jornadas.

Elena Reygadas resulta un ejemplo de constancia. Su línea de trabajo y el trato con su público no ha sido modificado a raíz de haber disfrutado del Premio Veuve Clicquot a la Mejor Chef Femenina de América Latina en 2014…

 

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