Como un susurro, -constante, sin prisa y sin alarmar a nadie-, despierta la nueva cocina de vanguardia india.
Por María Forcada
En Londres, Atul Kochhar ha recibido a lo largo de su trayectoria dos estrellas Michelín gracias a su concepto único de modernización de las recetas regionales de la India. Nuevas técnicas e investigación constantes para una gastronomía desconocida que Mr. Kochhar desnuda en su ciudad adoptiva, acompañándola de productos británicos. Fue el primer chef indio en recibir una estrella Michelin en Tamarindo en 2001, lo que luego se repitió en el aclamado Benares Restaurant & Bar en 2007. En 2008 inauguró Ananda en Dublín y a día de hoy es consultor restaurantes y cadenas hoteleras en distintos continentes. Como comunicador y escritor de libros ha publicado `Esencia India´, `Pescado al estilo indio´ y una última obra, `El curry en el mundo´. Gracias a su carismática personalidad y seductora cocina ha tenido el privilegio de oficiar para el príncipe Carlos en el Palacio de St.James y ha sido invitado personalmente a cocinar para SM la reina de Inglaterra durante la visita oficial del presidente de la India. Asociándose con Acción contra el hambre, este carismático chef emplea su éxito como medio para dar a conocer y apoyar obras de caridad.
¿Qué le diría a quienes creen que la cocina india no puede llegar a ser alta cocina?
Es una cuestión de opinión. La grandeza y versatilidad de la cocina propone experiencias que no están establecidas por ningún cliché. Yo pienso que los sabores funcionan mejor que las palabras a la hora de cambiar la percepción de las personas.
¿Cómo es posible adaptar recetas tan especiadas y aromáticas en la fría capital londinense?
Las especias están dominando lentamente las cocinas del mundo. Incluso uno de los grandes como David Muñoz (español con tres estrellas que hace incursión en Londres) se rindió ante su poder. El mundo se está convirtiendo en un lugar pequeño a través del cual la gente viaja, experimenta y abre las fronteras a nuevos sabores. Pero sobre todo, Reino Unido y la India son países que siempre han estado muy relacionados, su gente, su cocina… Por este motivo no resulta una gastronomía extraña.
¿Cómo consigue transformar un cordero al estilo tradicional en un cordero de autor?
Las recetas siguen una serie de ingredientes y métodos. Yo intento conservar las especias y sabores aprovechando técnicas y métodos modernos e incluso incluyendo nuevos elementos y texturas que aporten lo mejor a esa receta.
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En Bangkok (Tailandia), Gaggan Anand (en portada) se erige triunfante al situarse en la primera posición de Asia 50 Best (y Nº10 del mundo), a través de una cocina progresiva en la que se reinterpretan los sabores de la India.
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Anand fue el primer chef indio en formar parte del equipo de El Bulli, lo que se deduce de las técnicas contemporáneas que emplea: nitrógeno liquido, espumas, esferificaciones… Creaciones como los kebabs de pollo macerado en pimienta verde y espuma de cilantro contrastan con el restaurante, de estilo colonial, muebles de caña y ventiladores en el techo. “Mis platos están deliberadamente dirigidos a provocar al comensal, a sus emociones, y sobre todo están sometidos a una transformación poco notoria pero profunda. Por ejemplo, preparo un pollo tikka masala con una salsa más suave y más intensa, para ello pulverizo las semillas del tomate y extraigo sus aceites esenciales, –tal y como aprendí de Ferrán-, hago una mezcla con pulpa de tomate, crema de leche de soja, un poco de mantequilla, miel y Kasuri Methi (hojas especiadas), también añado un poco de goma xantana para espesar y paso la salsa por una máquina de presurización que suele emplearse para hacer Ketchup, lo que añade volumen al líquido, como si fuera un Cappuccino. Como ves, no he cambiado la receta de la tikka en absoluto, tan solo la he realzado haciéndola más sabrosa y ligera”. De momento, Anand no se plantea abrir nuevos negocios, a pesar de la proyección mundial que le concede ser número 1 de esta lista. “La presión es enorme, y tengo que estar muy concentrado, no quiero tener descuidos que me puedan llevar a tener los problemas que tuvieron Noma o Fat Duck”. Ejercer una cocina de carácter tan racial es difícil, de manera que Anand viaja a menudo a su tierra natal, con el fin de rememorar sus raíces. “Visito India cada tres meses, me hace revivir los sabores de mi niñez, sabores que no quiero ni debo olvidar. Los aromas de Kerala , Varanasi y Amritsar entre otros, los platos de influencia china de Calcuta y los dulces bengalíes, de los que no puedo prescindir a pesar de ser diabético”.
Vineet Bhatia es el claro ejemplo de superación de un hombre que cambió el rumbo de su vida para encontrarse con su destino. No pasar las pruebas físicas le impidieron entrar en las Fuerzas Aéreas, de manera que decidió dedicarse a algo completamente diferente, estudiando en la Escuela de Catering de Bombay, sin dejar de lado los deseos de sus padres de especializarse en Económicas, algo que le ha venido de perlas a la hora de desarrollar sus negocios. The Oberoi Hotel Group descubrió su talento reclutándole en 1988. “Lo maravilloso de crecer en Bombay es el eclecticismo que te rodea. Es un punto de encuentro de las diferentes regiones de India”. En aquella época la alta cocina estaba dominada por la culinaria francesa, de manera que cuando Vineet logró el puesto de chef en los restaurantes Webar y Kandahar, en el Hotel Oberoi, no logró experimentar en sus recetas tanto como deseaba. Estos motivos le llevaron a viajar a Londres en 1993, donde la cocina especiada y las pintas de cerveza parecían cautivar a los británicos. Fue aquí donde alcanzó un estrepitoso éxito que desembocó en la apertura de su propio negocio en 2014, Rasoi, su restaurante y su sueño. Bhatia logró alcanzar dos estrellas Michelín y es, actualmente, una de las 1000 personas más influyentes de la capital londinense y una de las 100 personalidades indias más reconocidas. Cuenta con más de 10 restaurantes en Londres, Ginebra, Isla Mauricio, Dubai, Baréin, Arabia Saudi, Qatar, Mumbai y asesora a las líneas aéreas Qatar Airways y British Airways.
La filosofía culinaria de Vineet Bhatia no se ajusta al pie de la letra a la cocina tradicional de la India, ésta tan solo le sirve de inspiración para crear sus propias combinaciones y contrastes en las texturas, los sabores y las temperaturas.
El veterano chef Hemant Oberoi es la imagen y el alma de las cocinas de Taj Mahal Palace, en Bombay, y representante de esta cadena hotelera en el mundo. Con más de 30 años de experiencia, Oberoi ha logrado adaptar la idiosincrasia de los sabores de la cocina india a los paladares de todo el planeta, llevándola a la categoría gourmet y fusionándola con otras cocinas, tal y como hizo junto a Morimoto en el primer restaurante japonés que abrió en Mumbai, Wasabi, que actualmente se encuentra dentro de la lista San Pellegrino.
Una mujer destaca dentro del panorama de la gastronomía india pero bajo un prisma distinto. Anjum Anand apuesta por una cocina con conciencia y su divulgación a partir de programas de televisión y de la publicación de diversos libros. Anjum creció en Londres pero ha estudiado y trabajado en Ginebra, París, Nueva York, Nueva Delhi y Los Ángeles, adoptando una visión cosmopolita y una perspectiva de la cocina india desde un punto de vista de dieta saludable, que nace a partir de su propia experiencia con problemas de peso. Publicó su primer libro a los 25 años, `Indian Every Day: Light, Healthy Indian Food’, un éxito en ventas y el primero de una serie de libros prácticos y didácticos que giran en torno a comer sano sin perder la esencia hindú. Desde entonces, se ha convertido en un icono de la cocina india moderna y una comunicadora convencida de lo que predica.
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While not as feature-packed as some other recipients of the GamblingNews Awards, Gates of Olympus is an intuitive title that offers a streamlined and dynamic experience. The game’s familiar theme and fast-paced gameplay have resonated with fans, allowing it to earn two Tier 1 awards. If you launch the game, you’ll find that Gates of Olympus plays out on six reels and five rows in a scatter payout system. Any eight or more identical symbols anywhere on the reels will trigger a payout. They don’t need to be on a payline or adjacent reels. This exciting game comes with an RTP of 96.5%, which is not unusual with Pragmatic Play titles. The software company is one of the top casino providers for generous paying slots. The overall user experience of the Gates of Olympus slot game is highly engaging and satisfying. The game’s combination of visually appealing graphics, engaging gameplay dynamics, and immersive narrative provides a complete and enjoyable gaming experience.
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The Gates of Olympus slot weaves a tapestry of ancient Greek mythology into its gameplay, with a particular emphasis on the enigmatic and capricious nature of Zeus. This theme is central to the experience, as Zeus’s whims can greatly influence the fortunes of players. His presence on the reels is a double-edged sword, capable of bestowing great rewards or leading to unforeseen losses. How does the Scatter Pays mechanism work in Gates of Olympus Dice? There is only one special symbol in this game — a Scatter, because, unfortunately, there is no Wild in Gates of Olympus. The Scatter here has two main goals. Firstly, it makes the winning combinations of four (x3), five (x5), or six (x100) corresponding symbols. Secondly, at least four such pictures trigger generously on prizes free spin feature.
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