Es impresionante como un territorio tan pequeño puede tener una complejidad orográfica y climática tan variada, lo que da como resultado zonas vitivinícolas de alta calidad.
Por María Forcada
De norte a sur podemos recorrer más de 60 denominaciones y cerca de 8.000 bodegas que produjeron 50 millones de hectolitros el pasado año, aunque esta no es la pauta dominante, pues suele situarse en la tercera posición por detrás de Francia e Italia.
Muchas de estas denominaciones están dedicadas en cuerpo y alma a la elaboración de vinos blancos, siendo las uvas Albariño, Godello, Verdejo, Airén, Garnacha Blanca, Viura, Macabeo, Txacolí, Palomino Fino, Moscatel, Xarel-Lo o Parellada autóctonas del país. Esta riqueza varietal se ve reforzada por otras foráneas que se adaptaron perfectamente a la tierra como las francesas Chardonnay o Sauvignon blanc y las alemanas Riesling o Gewürztraminer. Además, en algunos casos, el paso suave por barrica de estos vinos los ha dotado de una personalidad única que les permite competir dignamente frente a tintos con cuerpo, siendo posible su maridaje con aves de caza, quesos y guisos potentes.
Son quizás los vinos del norte de España los que gozan de mayor popularidad en México. Los Albariños, criados en Rias Baixas (Galicia) presentan una potencia frutal y una acidez controlada que, sin duda, ha sabido apreciarse. Aún desconocidos son los elaborados con Godello, (DO Valdeorras), vinos con más peso y carácter que el albariño, delicados y perfectos para envejecer sobre lías o en barrica. Muchas de sus cepas sobrevivieron a la filoxera y son las bodegas de Guitián, Rafael Palacios y Valdesil las grandes triunfadoras de la zona. El Txacolí es emblemático del País Vasco y curiosamente, aunque en España se consume poco fuera su tierra, la exportación al continente americano ha sido un éxito, tal vez por la ligereza de su cuerpo y esmerada acidez.
Rueda, que recorre sobre todo Valladolid, pero también parte de Segovia y Ávila, es cuna de vino blanco. Sus Verdejos (aunque también Sauvignon Blancs) son emblema nacional, siendo vinos agradables de beber, económicos y de calidad. Marqués de Riscal es posiblemente la referencia más internacional y Belondrade & Lurton fue una de las primeras marcas que introdujo la barrica en sus verdejos. En Rioja, donde los tintos son la estrella, se están elaborando últimamente grandes vinos blancos como Qué Bonito Cacareaba (combinación de Garnacha Blanca, Malvasía y Viura de Benjamín Romeo para Bodegas Contador), o Remelluri (del enólogo Telmo Rodríguez).
Cataluña es también tierra de vinos blancos y cavas por excelencia. Allí nacen la Macabeo, Xarel-Lo y Parellada, cuyo coupage ofrece algunos de los mejores vinos del país y donde Torres se ha consolidado como referencia internacional. La elaboración de vinos blancos baja por la costa mediterránea con poca relevancia pero se detiene en Cádiz, en Sanlúcar de Barrameda, donde curiosamente Bodegas Barbadillo hace con Palomino fino el vino Castillo de San Diego, el vino blanco español más exportado en el mundo.
En Somontano (Huesca), parece que las uvas alemanas campan a sus anchas en Bodegas Pirineos, Enate o Viñas del Vero. La Mancha y Madrid, donde impera la Airén, también elabora vino blanco pero todavía les queda un largo camino por recorrer para ser reconocidos como los anteriormente citados. Hay grandes vinos blancos elaborados con Malvasía en las islas Canarias y Baleares, pero su escasa producción los convierte, tristemente, en desconocidos para la mayoría del público.
Rias Baixas… El Blanco Favorito en México
Según datos del Consejo Regulador Rias Baixas, México fue el quinto destino en exportaciones de sus vinos durante el pasado año, tanto en valor económico como en volumen. Las bodegas de Rías Baixas exportaron 191.225 litros a México, por un total de 1.030.783,26 euros. Encabeza el mercado de exportaciones Estados Unidos (2.634.314 litros), seguido de Reino Unido (695.862 litros), Alemania (454.726 litros) y Puerto Rico (223.429 litros).
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